Blog Of Good Cheer » Places

Fingal Postcard Series: Baldoyle

felix — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 15:31:59 +0000

Back in February I was at the book launch of Fingal Through Old Picture Postcards, researched, compiled and written by Jacinta Judge, the senior librarian in charge of Fingal Local Studies.

The launch was at the Fingal Local Studies Department, Clonmel House, Swords and walking around the display room it became clear that the book contains only a sample of a large postcard collection of the Fingal area dating from the early twentieth century.

I bought a copy of the book and it planted a seed of an idea. It was to try and recreate the images depicted in the postcards by taking photographs of the locations as they are now. The postcards show Fingal in a time when it was less built up and it would be interesting to be able to see the comparison between then and now.

The first thing I needed was permission to use the postcard images, so I contacted Jacinta Judge and she kindly agreed to allow me to scan and use them for my posts.

So now all I have to do is take the photographs.

I’ve started with Baldoyle and I’ve already learned that it isn’t going to be easy.

Here is Baldoyle (and Sutton) as shown in a postcard in Jacinta’s book.

(The image is courtesy of the Fingal Local Studies Collection.)

The view is from above the houses and you can see clearly across to Howth Head.

To have a chance of reproducing that shot I’d need a very tall ladder or a small crane. Neither were available on the day!

So I’m going to show you three pictures, the scanned postcard, a photo looking from the Coast Road to Main Street Baldoyle and a photo looking at Howth from the promenade at Baldoyle.

Although the area has built up the church at Baldoyle is still a prominent feature and the views across to Howth, Ireland’s Eye and Lambay are wonderful.

I intend continuing the series slowly and irregularly over time, and although I won’t be able to photograph every scene in Jacinta’s book (some landmarks don’t exist anymore) I’ll try to get most of them.

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Fingal Postcard Series: Baldoyle

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Near the Samuel Beckett Bridge, Dublin

felix — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 19:17:16 +0000

Near Connolly Station, I realised that although I’d seen the new Samuel Beckett Bridge from a distance, I hadn’t crossed it, nor had I looked at it up close.

The bridge is easily recognisable, looking like a harp on its side; a national icon. I like that; it makes sense that a landmark should be easily picked out from the crowd.

For a long time the most significant landmarks along the Liffey were probably Liberty Hall, the Custom House, the Ha’penny Bridge, the Four Courts, Heuston Station and the Guinness Brewery.

Then along came the Spire (2002-2003) and the Seán O’Casey Bridge (2005). I didn’t warm to the Spire, or the Monument of Light as it is officially called, when it arrived first but it’s growing on me. I know it’s more than a stone’s throw from the Liffey but you have to try hard to miss seeing it as you walk along the quays.

I like the Seán O’Casey Bridge. Why not have another pedestrian bridge across the river? I used it today going from Custom House Quay to Merrion Square via Lombard Street East and as I looked along the Liffey towards the sea I saw cormorants below the bridge. I thought cormorants only liked rocky coasts, I guess not.

But it was the Samuel Becket Bridge that had my attention today. Opened for traffic in December 2009 it joins Sir John Rogerson’s Quay on the south side to North Wall Quay in the Docklands area. It may not be open a year but it has fast become one of my favourite Dublin City landmarks.

I took a few photos and tried to get that strange mixture of rain clouds and clear skies to play their part in the images. I really like how they turned out and I think black and white makes sense.

Right beside the bridge a market with a French twist was opening up. There was plenty of food on offer and it was really hard to resist the wonderful aromas from the huge pans of paella.

The bridge itself was my main interest. A cable-stayed bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava who also designed the James Joyce Bridge near Blackhall Place. No matter what angle I looked at it I couldn’t help feeling that it was a thing of beauty.

Facing upstream through a hole in its body you can clearly see Liberty Hall, the Custom House and the Spire as if this new upstart is showing respect to its older brothers.

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Near the Samuel Beckett Bridge, Dublin

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Boats Synch at Howth’s West Pier!

felix — Thu, 17 Jun 2010 09:15:58 +0000

On the West Pier at Howth, near Wright’s, you can see a set of rail tracks crossing from one side to the other. They disappear into a closed yard with a floor that looks like it’s made from railway sleepers.

A few days ago I was walking nearby and I spotted the usually closed gates were open.

I was glad I had my camera.

Through the open gates the heavy planks of wood were all aligned looking out into the harbour and I thought I might get a good geometric photograph. The pattern of parallel lines of the “sleepers” leading onto the vertical masts of the boats was what I was after.

I got down on my hunkers to take the shot but as I was lining it up, I heard movement behind me. Turning, I saw a fishing boat, a very large fishing boat, coming towards me on the rail tracks that lead to the platform.

Now I was really glad I had my camera.

Traffic along the pier was stopped as the boat was slowly pushed into the yard.

Clamped in place, looking shiny and new after repairs and a fresh coat of paint, the Rony, made its way slowly across the pier.

I’d visited Howth many times but I’d never seen these tracks or the yard being used.

It turns out that yard with the wooden planks is the platform of a synchrolift; a system for lifting boats and ships out of the water for maintenance work or repair.

The synchrolift at the West Pier of Howth is capable of lifting 600 tonnes and can be used twice a day. My guess is the twice a day restriction is due to tides, but I’m not certain.

Once the Rony was in place it started to descend, slowly, at about a foot per minute, allowing it to get back into the sea where it belongs. If you look at the last few pictures you’ll see the platform is below the level of the pier.

The process was going to take at least half an hour and although I’d loved to have seen the grand finale, I couldn’t hang around.

I’m sure it all went swimmingly.

I went away feeling good that I’d finally discovered what the yard was for and how it was used. Seeing the Rony straddle the pier as it moved towards the synchrolift made me realise how big these fishing boats actually are. A lot of skill went into building and repairing the Rony and a fair amount went into designing and building the synchrolift.

I was glad to have the chance to see the action.

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Boats Synch at Howth’s West Pier!

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Kilkee and Loop Head: Eating and Exploring

felix — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 17:48:22 +0000

If I was having dinner in Kilkee I think I’d head to Naughton’s. They do a great trio of fish (the fish selection changes) the staff are friendly and there’s a great buzz in the bar.

That doesn’t mean that I’ve anything against Murphy Blacks or The Strand. They both served up excellent food while I was in Kilkee and once again they are run very friendly people.

I suppose what swings it for Naughton’s is that it was lively. Sometimes if you’ve had a long day out and about exploring a bit of life in a restaurant can make the difference between falling asleep or getting a second wind.

Here’s a tip. If you want a lively bar atmosphere head to Naughton’s, if you want excellent food and a good wine selection head to Murphy Blacks, and if you want to enjoy a great food and see the sun setting in the Atlantic head to The Strand Restaurant.

And here’s another tip. Stay in Kilkee for four nights and eat in all of these restaurants once, and on the last night eat a second time in the one that most suits your mood.

It’s worth checking their days of opening because I think they may only open weekends during the off-season.

There’s one last place in Kilkee that I’m going to recommend to eat and chill, The Diamond Rocks Cafe. We had scones fresh out of the oven on a bright Sunday morning. Add to that great coffee and the Sunday papers and we didn’t move from our spot looking over Kilkee Bay for hours. If you ever want to check out the weather in Kilkee and you don’t trust forecasts, try The Diamond Rock Cafe’s live webcam.

If you’re taking in the Loop Head Drive then you could do a lot worse stopping off at The Long Dock in Carrigaholt. I had seafood chowder their twice. Once while exploring Loop Head and the second time was when I came off the Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch boat after successfully finding a dolphin and more sea life than I knew what to do with. They do great seafood chowder in The Long Dock but their reputation is known and you may have to wait a bit for a seat.

If your follow the Loop Head drive you could very easily find yourself in Kilbaha. This is home to The Lighthouse Inn where we stopped to take in the view and to have coffee and rhubarb crumble. There was a great crowd of tourists there and they seemed to be enjoying getting stuck in to various main courses.

If you’ve kept with me and this post you’ve probably guessed that we pushed the boat out a little and ate well while we were staying in Kilkee. Sometimes it’s nice to treat yourself nicely.

We also made sure we explored Loop Head and much of what it had to offer. The drive around Loop Head is spectacular. There are plenty of places to stop the car and get out and explore on foot. Many of the locals believe that the scenery is as good as what you’d find further north at the Cliffs of Moher. The areas around Kilcredaun, Kilbaha, Loop Head Lighthouse and The Bridges of Ross, make this less frequented part of Ireland an absolute paradise for anyone who wants to experience nature in all its glory, without the tour buses.

If you have the inclination and a bit more time than we had you might take a trip to Scattery Island. The island lies in the mouth of the River Shannon near Kilrush and you can get a boat over and explore. I’ll have to save that trip for another day but I was able to take a photo of the round tower from Cappa Pier, Kilrush.

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Kilkee and Loop Head: Eating and Exploring

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Kilkee: The Place To Be!

felix — Thu, 20 May 2010 06:27:25 +0000

I’m looking at small brochure which briefly describes the merits of Kilkee, County Clare. It quickly lists all the things to do, sights to see and places to visit. On the back page it says “Kilkee, one of Ireland’s leading tourist resorts, is a charming picturesque seaside town that retains much of its Victorian ambiance of the 19^th century”. Having been there I feel I can’t, and wouldn’t, argue with that.

Inside the folded cover it lists its many tourist attractions, including:

In Kilkee: Kilkee beach, Cliff Scenery, Kilkee Waterworld, Fishing, Pollock Holes, Kilkee Golf Club
Near Kilkee: Loop Head, Carrigaholt Castle, Scattery Island, Doonbeg Bog, Dolphin Watch

Less than a fortnight ago I’d the chance to spend a weekend in Kilkee. I wasn’t sure what I’d get up to but I knew that The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher weren’t too far away and would be worth a visit.

I never got to see them.

I enjoyed Kilkee and its surroundings so much that I spent the entire weekend either in Kilkee, out walking on its wonderful cliff walks or exploring Loop head and its many stunning views. If you read this blog regularly you’ll know that I also spent a wonderful afternoon out on the sea with Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch.

But let’s go back to Kilkee and the town itself.

We travelled from Dublin and picked the Galway road before turning off for Loughrea, Gort, Ennis, Kilrush and then Kilkee. It’s a 4 hour journey, there’s no getting away from that. We could’ve taken the Limerick road but it wouldn’t have been any quicker. Anyway the Galway route suited us as we wanted to stop in Athlone, stretch our legs and have a bite to eat.

People have different preferences when it comes to the type of accommodation they prefer. Kilkee has no shortage of Hotels, B & Bs and self-catering holiday homes. We picked a self-catering holiday home that is part of the Spanish Cove complex and it was great. We’d plenty of space, good facilities and easy access to the beach.

In fact the beach was no more that 2 minutes walk away. The brochure says it is a mile long semi-circular sandy beach and is one of the finest in Ireland. Well it certainly looked great to me.

In the morning the sun rises and spreads its glow out from the beach onto the sea. In the evening the setting sun falls into the Atlantic and you can see walkers, joggers and sometimes horses casting long shadows in the sand.

The highlight for me was the cliff walks. You could easily spend 2 hours out walking around the cliffs on either side of Kilkee. If, like me, you stop regularly to take in the stunning views it could take a bit longer than that.

Walking in a south-west direction, keeping the sea to your right you can head out past the Diamond Rocks Cafe and the statue of Richard Harris and on past many spectacular views of cliffs and sea stacks.

If you go in the other direction, north-east, keeping the sea to your left, passing Kilkee Golf Course and on to George’s Head you have wonderful views back toward Kilkee itself and across to the sea stack on the far side of the bay. The golf course looks impressive too, with the 3^rd hole looking precarious for anyone with a tendency to hook their tee shot.

I spent hours out on these cliffs at different times of the day and each time I looked at what became familiar scenery I was surprised by how different it felt as the sun and the clouds fought for position.

There weren’t too many people visiting Kilkee while I was there. I found that strange as I think with all it has to offer, (swimming, walking, fishing, golf, cycling, horse riding) there is plenty to do no matter what the weather has in store. I did see some car registrations from Dublin, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Donegal, Northern Ireland and UK) so I think a select group of people from all over the country know its worth.

I’ll write about Loop Head and the many places we found that served fantastic seafood in another post. Although those experiences were part of the weekend and helped make it special I just feel that Kilkee deserves a post on its own.

As I was out walking I met a Polish man who lives in Nenagh and travelled to Kilkee that morning to fish from the rocks. He said he caught plenty of pollock the previous week. When I asked if he expected to do well today he said it didn’t matter, if he truly wanted to get fish he’d go to a fishmongers, all he really wanted to do was smell the ocean and spend time relaxing and taking in the scenery. I can’t blame him.

I also met a local man who was heading for his morning dip in one of the rock pools not far from the golf club. The sea looked fantastic but cold, so I wasn’t tempted to get in. But he looked as though not going for a swim in the morning was like not breathing; it was just part of his life. I bet he swims there all year round.

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Kilkee: The Place To Be!

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Kilkee, County Clare, Ireland

felix — Mon, 10 May 2010 17:28:43 +0000

We’ve just had a fantastic weekend based in Kilkee Co. Clare.

While there we were able to explore Kilkee and the surrounding areas, take in the stunning coastal scenery of the Loop Head peninsula and search for dolphins with Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch.

If that wasn’t enough we had some of the best fish we’ve ever tasted.

So this is just a teaser for a series of posts coming up describing a weekend in South West Clare.

Did I forget to mention the sunsets?!

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Kilkee, County Clare, Ireland

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A Weekend In Dorset And Hampshire

felix — Thu, 15 Apr 2010 16:27:54 +0000

Last Friday I flew to Southampton on my way to Poole in Dorset. I was having a weekend break and in the process I was visiting a good friend who lives there.

A little extra spice was added to the flight as Flybe use a propeller plane for the trip. I wasn’t expecting that, and because of its smaller size I struggled a little with my hand baggage. But the cabin crew were very helpful and sorted everything out.

I was picked up at the airport by A, and we had a few days to go and do whatever we wanted. We quickly came up with a plan.

It was a simple plan.

Day 1: make our way as tourists from the airport to Poole, stopping wherever we liked in Hampshire and Dorset.

Day 2: was more of the same, except it was entirely based in Dorset, driving around the Purbecks.

The weather was great. I think it was cooler than in Ireland at around 16 degrees, but the skies were blue and the sun was shining.

I know Dorset quite well as I worked there once upon a time. I ended up staying there longer than planned because I liked it so much. It’s a good while since I visited so I was looking forward to having the chance to explore old haunts.

On Day 1 we took a route to Poole, stopping in Hythe, Calshot, Beaulieu, Lymington and Highcliffe. Each town was different to the last, and all were worth visiting.

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I think the highlights were Calshot’s beach huts, Beaulieu and Highcliffe Castle. Beaulieu in the New Forest National Park was stunning.

On Day 2 we concentrated on the Purbecks, visiting Studland, Swanage, Corfe Castle, Kimmeridge, Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door.

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Kimmeridge, Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door were the highlights here. We parked at Lulworth and walked to Durdle Door along a path that seemed to go up and up without end. I need to get fitter I think.

Kimmeridge is famous for fossils dating to the Jurassic period. It sits in an area of Dorset and East Devon known as The Jurassic Coast.

The weekend was fantastic – thanks A.

We had a great time exploring, taking in the Southern England countryside and treating ourselves to well deserved pints of ale and bitter.

Having a couple of pints of Tanglefoot before going for an Indian meal at the end of Day 1 was a real treat.

With Flybe flying to Southampton Airport and Ryanair flying to Bournemouth, the south of England is easy to reach.

The train service provided by South West Trains will take you along the coast from Weymouth to Southampton before travelling on to London.

View Larger Map

I headed back to Southampton Airport on the 10:50 from Poole, which stopped at almost every station possible on its 80 minute journey. Seeing the coast and the New Forest again from a different angle was a nice way to end the weekend.

Since I’ve got back I’ve been thinking that staying in the New Forest for a week, hiring bikes and exploring by train could be a really good holiday at the end of summer.

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A Weekend In Dorset And Hampshire

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All the Fun Of The Fair: Trim, County Meath

felix — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 17:52:47 +0000

I paid a flying visit to the Trim Balloon Fiesta yesterday afternoon.

Although the conditions weren’t great for launching the balloons, the organisers inflated a few so we could see what they’re like.

As I arrived I saw Sonic the Hedgehog on its way down, and just before I left the Maxwell House Coffee balloon was up.

Apart from the balloons there were plenty of market stalls selling food, clothing and jewellery. Add in the fairground attractions and there was plenty of opportunity to have a bit of Bank Holiday fun.

Entrance to the fiesta was free and that suited me as I was really only interested in seeing the hot air balloons and soaking up the atmosphere.

It looked like plenty of people were finding ways to enjoy themselves either on the amusements, having mock straw battles or just strolling around enjoying being outdoors.

The whole area around Trim Castle on the the banks of the Boyne is beautiful. I can see that it would be the perfect place to explore on a summer’s day.

This time I was really only passing through. But I see myself visiting Trim Castle again when we get a spell of good weather. A picnic really does sound like a great idea.

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All the Fun Of The Fair: Trim, County Meath

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Shadows and Light on Burrow Beach, Sutton

felix — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 12:13:55 +0000

When the sun is low in the sky casting long shadows, familiar places can start to look magical.

The dark shadows and the light of the setting sun can make a great visual contrast.

Yesterday, as the sun was going down, I was walking on Burrow Beach, Sutton. The low sun was aiming straight at Ireland’s Eye and it looked absolutely stunning.

I like Burrow Beach. It doesn’t get too busy and it makes a nice flat walk from Sutton to Howth, away from the traffic. At one end you have Sutton Golf Club and at the other you have the Howth’s West Pier.

The beach itself isn’t much more than 1km long but it’s a beautiful walk no matter what the weather throws at you. Certainly less strenuous than last Sunday’s Sutton to Howth cliff walk.

It wasn’t a day for rushing. I had planned on walking to Howth and getting a cup of coffee but I decided to sit and watch the changing light instead. It was a perfect way to relax.

I’ve been reading about contrasts in images lately in Michael Freeman’s 101 Top Digital Photography Tips. It’s a super book that covers a lot of ground in a series of chapters devoted to key elements of photography.

In his chapter on composition, Freeman talks about contrasts within the image. As I read I realised that I don’t often look at a potential photograph and think beyond where I want to place the subject. But looking for contrasts, e.g. shadows and light, man made and natural, lines and curves, rough and smooth…the list is probably endless, can make an image so much more interesting.

The great thing about the book is that it has me considering what I’m seeing much more than I ever did before. I like that. It hasn’t instantly improved my photography skills, but it has given me every chance to get better as I consider what materials I can work with.

That doesn’t mean I’m going to stop taking snaps. If I insisted on analysing every situation before taking a photograph I’d not only lose the moment but also the patience of anyone who’s with me.

But when I’ve the time, and the situation allows, I’ll view my surroundings a little differently from now on.

Yesterday on Burrow Beach was like that. I like the result, especially the picture of the rock pool and Ireland’s Eye.

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Shadows and Light on Burrow Beach, Sutton

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Sutton to Howth Summit On A Cold Sunny Day

felix — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 20:42:30 +0000

Last Sunday was cold but sunny. It was perfect weather for a long walk if you were wrapped-up.

I decided to follow the cliff walk from Sutton to Howth. My plan wasn’t to follow the cliff all the way, but to break away from it just after the Baily Lighthouse and head down to Howth along the old tram lines. There’s a view over Howth harbour and Ireland’s Eye I wanted to photograph.

Before I even got to the Sutton Martello Tower I met a gaggle of Geese! Brent geese to be exact. They were doing what they usually do, feeding.

I wasn’t the only one out. There was a group of intrepid kayakers getting ready to push off and I met plenty of walkers on the path. Although the route is narrow in places and there are stone steps to negotiate, it’s a popular route for walkers of all standards. I met plenty of those who were taking it seriosly and also some families just out for a stroll. I was surprised to meet a couple of mountain bikers who semed to like the route a lot.

Although it was cold, and the wind didn’t help, the sun and the activity was enough to stay warm. I really only felt the cold when I stopped to take photos. Natures way of encouraging me to keep going, perhaps?

The rocks around Howth are full of wildlife. There are plenty of screeching gulls looking for a meal and also cormorants, sitting on the rocks, stretching out their wet wings to dry in the sun.

Visibility was great and the views over Dublin Bay were wonderful. On a day like this its hard to know if you should push on and continue the walk, or just find a perfect spot, sit down and take in the view.

Once I reached the Baily Lighthouse I could have continued along the cliff to Howth but that wasn’t the plan. I went up the steepest part of the walk so far, past The Summit pub and started down the disused tram lines.

Following the path down there’s a spot on the right, that has a very attractive bench and a view over Howth Harbour that is stunning.

After a little rest, a chance to take in the view and a few photographs I headed on down to Howth Village.

If you do this walk on a Sunday and time it right to arrive at the Pier House around 1pm, there’s usually a traditional music session that’s worth stopping for. They also do a decent pint.

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Sutton to Howth Summit On A Cold Sunny Day

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