Flip-flops and sandals have never been the answer for me. The main reason is support or lack of support to be more accurate. I’ve never been able to find a pair of flip-flops or sandals that I could wear for hours walking around towns and villages and not suffer for it the next day. Other people can wear them, but after an hour or two my feet get tired and start to ache. How can you explore on foot if your feet hurt?

The other reason is smell. My feet don’t normally smell badly but once I put them into a pair of flip-flops or sandals there is an instant chemical reaction and my feet and the footwear really should be quarantined. If there was a medical term describing the experience it would be something like Foot-odour Holiday Syndrome.

But flip-flops and sandals are the best footwear for a sun-holiday. You just can’t avoid perspiring if the temperature is a good 10 degrees higher than you’re used to. Footwear that lets your feet breath is a tried and trusted way to stay cool.

This holiday I’ve been lucky with the weather. Apart from the odd thunder storm the sky has been blue and the sun has been shining and with a little more luck it will continue that way.

So why am I bothering to write a post at all? Surely I should be sitting under an umbrella outside a nice bar sipping a cool drink, chatting to the locals or reading a good book. You’d probably be right if you said I’ve no business typing on a keyboard while the sun is shining.

But something happened on the way out in Dublin airport that has made this holiday a bit special. I popped into the fat face shop and bought a pair of flip-flops in their sale. It was an impulse buy (what else could it be at 6 am) before boarding the flight to Rome.

I’ve long reconciled myself to the fact that I cannot wear flip-flops. Well perhaps I can walk around a flat surface for a little while but once the ground gets uneven (not much, just a little uneven) I can’t walk in them. I look ridiculous walking in a way that has me trying desperately to keep them on by scrunching up my toes.

I find it impossible and before long my feet are sore and I’m fed up.

But in fat face in Dublin airport I found the perfect flip-flop – the perfect flip-flop for me that is. It may not be everyone’s ideal shape but with a significant rise supporting my arches I feel I could walk around in them all day long.

Oh and they don’t smell. I’ve stress tested them several times now and I’m completely satisfied that neither the flip-flops nor my feet smell badly after a day’s extensive use.

Finally I can wear flip-flops, woo-hoo!

So that got me thinking. In the past I’ve bought relatively expensive sandals that are supposed to be as comfortable as walking shoes and are made from specially designed foot-odour killing material. After taking them home, trying to break them in, it quickly became clear that their designers still have a way to go to get the technology right.

But spurred on by my successful flip-flop purchase I decided to chance getting a cheap pair of sandals in the sales in a local shoe shop. This shop sold its most expensive pair of sandals for €40 and it’s cheapest for €30. I didn’t recognise any brand they sold. Not a Columbia, North Face or Salomon in sight. I tried the range and settled for cheapest pair.

Again I’m delighted. They are comfortable and I can walk in them for hours and despite the fact that the manufacturer (Lotto) does not claim that they are ergonomically designed to fit my feet or that they have been manufactured from odour killing material they are the most comfortable, odour-free sandals I’ve ever owned.

I can now walk about on cobbled streets, sandy beaches and forest paths without any discomfort. Trust me, in temperatures that range from 24 to 34 degrees having your toes exposed is the only way to travel.

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No mean feat – trying to wear flip-flops or sandals.

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The bridge is easily recognisable, looking like a harp on its side; a national icon. I like that; it makes sense that a landmark should be easily picked out from the crowd.

For a long time the most significant landmarks along the Liffey were probably Liberty Hall, the Custom House, the Ha’penny Bridge, the Four Courts, Heuston Station and the Guinness Brewery.

Then along came the Spire (2002-2003) and the Seán O’Casey Bridge (2005). I didn’t warm to the Spire, or the Monument of Light as it is officially called, when it arrived first but it’s growing on me. I know it’s more than a stone’s throw from the Liffey but you have to try hard to miss seeing it as you walk along the quays.

I like the Seán O’Casey Bridge. Why not have another pedestrian bridge across the river? I used it today going from Custom House Quay to Merrion Square via Lombard Street East and as I looked along the Liffey towards the sea I saw cormorants below the bridge. I thought cormorants only liked rocky coasts, I guess not.

But it was the Samuel Becket Bridge that had my attention today. Opened for traffic in December 2009 it joins Sir John Rogerson’s Quay on the south side to North Wall Quay in the Docklands area. It may not be open a year but it has fast become one of my favourite Dublin City landmarks.

I took a few photos and tried to get that strange mixture of rain clouds and clear skies to play their part in the images. I really like how they turned out and I think black and white makes sense.

Right beside the bridge a market with a French twist was opening up. There was plenty of food on offer and it was really hard to resist the wonderful aromas from the huge pans of paella.

The bridge itself was my main interest. A cable-stayed bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava who also designed the James Joyce Bridge near Blackhall Place. No matter what angle I looked at it I couldn’t help feeling that it was a thing of beauty.

Facing upstream through a hole in its body you can clearly see Liberty Hall, the Custom House and the Spire as if this new upstart is showing respect to its older brothers.

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Near the Samuel Beckett Bridge, Dublin

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I don’t mind walking in the rain. In fact I quite like it; especially by the sea. If the tide is in and the wind blows and rain falls there can be a great feeling of energy. The only other time I felt that raw power was when I was on a walking trip in Italy a few years ago. A group of us were on a guided hike in the Dolomites. On one of the days the good weather turned nasty and we got caught in a lightning storm that cracked and electrified the air all around us. It was scary, exciting and fun.

Although yesterday was tame compared to that storm in Italy there was one big difference. In Italy I had waterproofs at the ready, yesterday I had summer gear and that was it. Usually I follow that often quoted phrase by Rannulph Fiennes, “There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing”. Well yesterday we certainly had bad weather and I definitely had the wrong clothes.

The rain was light enough when we set out, but it didn’t take long for it to really get going. Throw in a strong wind blowing in from the coast and the recipe for a good soaking was set. At one stage I had to cover my right eye as the angle of the rain stung it over and over again. When I got home I realised that on one side I’d started to dry out a little (just a little) and on the other I was dripping – that’s the sea breeze for you.

We weren’t the only intrepid walkers out there. There was a merry band out “enjoying” the experience. The word of the day was “mad”. Practically every exchange we had with our fellow walkers was “Are we mad?”, “We must be mad!”, or “This is madness”. But it was fun too. There was a certain camaraderie in our drenched sloshing that ensured that although we were being pounded, although none of us had worn appropriate clothing and here’s the kicker, although we could have turned back!; we all kept going to reach whatever distance or destination we set out to achieve.

When we finally arrived home, a hot shower later, I think it was P who said “that was great to do”. She was right, being outside in the wind and driven rain, cleared away the cobwebs, and left us feeling alert, lively and full of energy for the rest of the day.

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Walking in a Cobweb-Free Zone

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That doesn’t mean that I’ve anything against Murphy Blacks or The Strand. They both served up excellent food while I was in Kilkee and once again they are run very friendly people.

I suppose what swings it for Naughton’s is that it was lively. Sometimes if you’ve had a long day out and about exploring a bit of life in a restaurant can make the difference between falling asleep or getting a second wind.

Here’s a tip. If you want a lively bar atmosphere head to Naughton’s, if you want excellent food and a  good wine selection head to Murphy Blacks, and if you want to enjoy a great food and see the sun setting in the Atlantic head to The Strand Restaurant.

And here’s another tip. Stay in Kilkee for four nights and eat in all of these restaurants once, and on the last night eat a second time in the one that most suits your mood.

It’s worth checking their days of opening because I think they may only open weekends during the off-season.

There’s one last place in Kilkee that I’m going to recommend to eat and chill, The Diamond Rocks Cafe. We had scones fresh out of the oven on a bright Sunday morning. Add to that great coffee and the Sunday papers and we didn’t move from our spot looking over Kilkee Bay for hours. If you ever want to check out the weather in Kilkee and you don’t trust forecasts, try The Diamond Rock Cafe’s live webcam.

If you’re taking in the Loop Head Drive then you could do a lot worse stopping off at The Long Dock in Carrigaholt. I had seafood chowder their twice. Once while exploring Loop Head and the second time was when I came off the Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch boat after successfully finding a dolphin and more sea life than I knew what to do with. They do great seafood chowder in The Long Dock but their reputation is known and you may have to wait a bit for a seat.

If your follow the Loop Head drive you could very easily find yourself in Kilbaha. This is home to The Lighthouse Inn where we stopped to take in the view and to have coffee and rhubarb crumble. There was a great crowd of tourists there and they seemed to be enjoying getting stuck in to various main courses.

If you’ve kept with me and this post you’ve probably guessed that we pushed the boat out a little and ate well while we were staying in Kilkee. Sometimes it’s nice to treat yourself nicely.

We also made sure we explored Loop Head and much of what it had to offer. The drive around Loop Head is spectacular. There are plenty of places to stop the car and get out and explore on foot. Many of the locals believe that the scenery is as good as what you’d find further north at the Cliffs of Moher. The areas around Kilcredaun, Kilbaha, Loop Head Lighthouse and The Bridges of Ross, make this less frequented part of Ireland an absolute paradise for anyone who wants to experience nature in all its glory, without the tour buses.

If you have the inclination and a bit more time than we had you might take a trip to Scattery Island. The island lies in the mouth of the River Shannon near Kilrush and you can get a boat over and explore. I’ll have to save that trip for another day but I was able to take a photo of the round tower from Cappa Pier, Kilrush.

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Kilkee and Loop Head: Eating and Exploring

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Inside the folded cover it lists its many tourist attractions, including:

• In Kilkee: Kilkee beach, Cliff Scenery, Kilkee Waterworld, Fishing, Pollock Holes, Kilkee Golf Club
• Near Kilkee: Loop Head, Carrigaholt Castle, Scattery Island, Doonbeg Bog, Dolphin Watch

Less than a fortnight ago I’d the chance to spend a weekend in Kilkee. I wasn’t sure what I’d get up to but I knew that The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher weren’t too far away and would be worth a visit.

I never got to see them.

I enjoyed Kilkee and its surroundings so much that I spent the entire weekend either in Kilkee, out walking on its wonderful cliff walks or exploring Loop head and its many stunning views. If you read this blog regularly you’ll know that I also spent a wonderful afternoon out on the sea with Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch.

But let’s go back to Kilkee and the town itself.

We travelled from Dublin and picked the Galway road before turning off for Loughrea, Gort, Ennis, Kilrush and then Kilkee. It’s a 4 hour journey, there’s no getting away from that. We could’ve taken the Limerick road but it wouldn’t have been any quicker. Anyway the Galway route suited us as we wanted to stop in Athlone, stretch our legs and have a bite to eat.

People have different preferences when it comes to the type of accommodation they prefer. Kilkee has no shortage of Hotels, B & Bs and self-catering holiday homes. We picked a self-catering holiday home that is part of the Spanish Cove complex and it was great. We’d plenty of space, good facilities and easy access to the beach.

In fact the beach was no more that 2 minutes walk away. The brochure says it is a mile long semi-circular sandy beach and is one of the finest in Ireland. Well it certainly looked great to me.

In the morning the sun rises and spreads its glow out from the beach onto the sea. In the evening the setting sun falls into the Atlantic and you can see walkers, joggers and sometimes horses casting long shadows in the sand.

The highlight for me was the cliff walks. You could easily spend 2 hours out walking around the cliffs on either side of Kilkee. If, like me, you stop regularly to take in the stunning views it could take a bit longer than that.

Walking in a south-west direction, keeping the sea to your right you can head out past the Diamond Rocks Cafe and the statue of Richard Harris and on past many spectacular views of cliffs and sea stacks.

If you go in the other direction, north-east, keeping the sea to your left, passing Kilkee Golf Course and on to George’s Head you have wonderful views back toward Kilkee itself and across to the sea stack on the far side of the bay. The golf course looks impressive too, with the 3^rd hole looking precarious for anyone with a tendency to hook their tee shot.

I spent hours out on these cliffs at different times of the day and each time I looked at what became familiar scenery I was surprised by how different it felt as the sun and the clouds fought for position.

There weren’t too many people visiting Kilkee while I was there. I found that strange as I think with all it has to offer, (swimming, walking, fishing, golf, cycling, horse riding) there is plenty to do no matter what the weather has in store. I did see some car registrations from Dublin, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Donegal, Northern Ireland and UK) so I think a select group of people from all over the country know its worth.

I’ll write about Loop Head and the many places we found that served fantastic seafood in another post. Although those experiences were part of the weekend and helped make it special I just feel that Kilkee deserves a post on its own.

As I was out walking I met a Polish man who lives in Nenagh and travelled to Kilkee that morning to fish from the rocks. He said he caught plenty of pollock the previous week. When I asked if he expected to do well today he said it didn’t matter, if he truly wanted to get fish he’d go to a fishmongers, all he really wanted to do was smell the ocean and spend time relaxing and taking in the scenery. I can’t blame him.

I also met a local man who was heading for his morning dip in one of the rock pools not far from the golf club. The sea looked fantastic but cold, so I wasn’t tempted to get in. But he looked as though not going for a swim in the morning was like not breathing; it was just part of his life. I bet he swims there all year round.

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Kilkee: The Place To Be!

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It was a beautiful day in Kilkee. People were beginning to chip and head for walks along the beach and cliffs or settle into a bit of breakfast in the local hotels. It felt warm enough, but I knew that if I’m told to “dress warmly” on a boat that the temperature at sea was going to be a lot cooler.

Two fleeces, a waterproof jacket and a pair of lined trousers later we arrived in Carrigaholt ready to cast off. Other enthusiastic would-be dolphin spotters arrived and it was clear that Susanne and Geoff’s reputation for delivering a great day out had spread. We were in the company of a few Irish along with visitors from UK, US and Poland (I think); all looking forward to a 2 hour cruise out of Carrigaholt, passing Kilcredaun, Loop Head and on to the Atlantic.

Susanne and Geoff Magee founded Dolphinwatch in 1992 and are passionate about dolphins and their natural habitats. You can read more about them here.

My sea legs aren’t the best so I was pleased to hear Susanne say that winds were light, there was no swell and the sea was smooth. In fact my understanding was that they weren’t going to sail the next day as the weather forecast predicted stronger winds. I suppose it seems a little strange that I’d head out on a boat, into the Atlantic (barely) if I’m not comfortable on water. But what else could I do if I wanted to see dolphins and the wonderful views of Loop Head from the sea.

P has no trouble being on a boat and loves it all the more if it’s a bit rocky!

So at about 1 pm we cast off and left Carrigaholt. We passed Kilcredaun Lighthouse, Loop Head Lighthouse, the Diarmuid and Grainne rock and on the way we saw plenty of sea birds, but no dolphins.

We saw two daredevil anglers casting very long lines into the sea, a colony of guillemots standing to attention as we sailed by and a herd of a rare breed of goat clinging to the cliffs. But still we saw no dolphins.

I asked Susanne if finding the dolphins was down to luck and she explained that although luck played a part it was mainly down to science and experience. Reports of sightings from other boats helped too but Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch have a 95% success rate in finding and spotting dolphins. The previous day they had hardly left the pier and they spotted 10 dolphins having fun swimming nearby.

Apart from searching for the main attraction, Geoff filled us in on local stories and legends:

• Diarmuid and Grainne’s Rock: Cuchulain jumped from the mainland to this crag, to escape the attentions of a witch called Mal. The isolated fragment of cliff on which Cuchulain sought refuge is called Diarmuid and Grainne’s rock. It seems odd that it is called after Diarmuid and Grainne when the legend is about Cuchulain but that’s just the way it is.
• Kilcredaun Church: Saint Credaun was baptised by Saint Senen of Scattery Island in the Shannon Estuary. He is reputedly buried in the ruins of his church in the townland of Kilcredaun near Carrigaholt.
• Kilcredaun Battlement: example of artillery fortifications, built to guard against a French invasion.

We were supposed to be at sea for 2 hours. But Susanne and Geoff are dedicated and don’t like to take people out and not find their goal. Having searched all along Loop Head and over near Ballybunion sands on the Kerry side of the estuary we had no luck and were making our way back to Carrigaholt. As we were passing Kilcredaun a shout went up and there, feeding in the current, was a lone bottlenose dolphin. It was after 4pm and we’d finally found our quarry.

I tried to get a good picture, but as he was feeding and chasing food, that proved hard. I’ve decided to call this dolphin Finn (it seemed appropriate!), and I hope to see him again along with his buddies the next time I go out with Dolphinwatch.

We arrived back at around 5 pm after nearly 4 hours at sea. It was fantastic and I’d have no hesitation recommending the trip. Just dress warmly, and remember that dolphins don’t always turn up when you want them to. But if they are to be found at all then the odds are that Susanne and Geoff will find them.

You can get more details on Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch here.

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Searching for Dolphins with Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch

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While there we were able to explore Kilkee and the surrounding areas, take in the stunning coastal scenery of the Loop Head peninsula and search for dolphins with Carrigaholt Dolphinwatch.

If that wasn’t enough we had some of the best fish we’ve ever tasted.

So this is just a teaser for a series of posts coming up describing a weekend in South West Clare.

Did I forget to mention the sunsets?!

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Kilkee, County Clare, Ireland

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We don’t have a lawn; we’ve a patch of grass that only appears dandelion free right after it’s been cut. The next day they’re back. They seem to like our patch, so who am I to evict them?

What is a weed anyway?

I’ve always been curious about what defines a weed so I finally looked it up. Here are a few definitions:

• A plant considered undesirable, unattractive, or troublesome, especially one growing where it is not wanted, as in a garden.
• A plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth, especially one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants
• A species of plant growing in an area it did not naturally occur in. Usually a species not native to the area.

So weeds aren’t good. But there’s another point of view. Many so-called weeds have benefits. The dandelion can break up hard earth with its root, bringing up nutrients to plants that don’t have the same reach. This makes it a good companion for shallow-rooted crops, e.g. tomatoes. Here is a list of other beneficial weeds and their uses from Wikipedia.

About a week ago, it was a typical April day with sunshine and showers. The grass needed cutting, but it wasn’t going to happen as it was wet and more showers were on the way.

So I took the camera out to see if I could get any good photos in the garden. In the space of 10 minutes I took the six pictures you can see above.

In a very small space we have tulips (white and yellow), cowslips, something purple (I’ve no idea what it is) and of course, dandelions.

I think my favourite picture is the one of the three yellow tulips standing tall, but I like them all.

I’d love to know what the purple flower is so if you have an idea please let me know.

I’ll finish with a series of quotes on the subject of weeds, some of which counter the standard definition:

• A flower falls, even though we love it; and a weed grows, even though we do not love it.~ Dogen
• A weed is a plant that has mastered every survival skill except for learning how to grow in rows. ~ Doug Larson
• A weed is but an unloved flower. ~ Ella Wheeler Wilcox
• A weed is no more than a flower in disguise, which is seen through at once, if love give a man eyes. ~ James Russell Lowell
• What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have never been discovered. ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Dandelions, Cowslips, Tulips, and something Purple

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A little extra spice was added to the flight as Flybe use a propeller plane for the trip. I wasn’t expecting that, and because of its smaller size I struggled a little with my hand baggage. But the cabin crew were very helpful and sorted everything out.

I was picked up at the airport by A, and we had a few days to go and do whatever we wanted. We quickly came up with a plan.

It was a simple plan.

The weather was great. I think it was cooler than in Ireland at around 16 degrees, but the skies were blue and the sun was shining.

I know Dorset quite well as I worked there once upon a time. I ended up staying there longer than planned because I liked it so much. It’s a good while since I visited so I was looking forward to having the chance to explore old haunts.

On Day 1 we took a route to Poole, stopping in Hythe, Calshot, Beaulieu, Lymington and Highcliffe. Each town was different to the last, and all were worth visiting.

I think the highlights were Calshot’s beach huts, Beaulieu and Highcliffe Castle. Beaulieu in the New Forest National Park was stunning.

On Day 2 we concentrated on the Purbecks, visiting Studland, Swanage, Corfe Castle, Kimmeridge, Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door.

Kimmeridge, Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door were the highlights here. We parked at Lulworth and walked to Durdle Door along a path that seemed to go up and up without end. I need to get fitter I think.

Kimmeridge is famous for fossils dating to the Jurassic period. It sits in an area of Dorset and East Devon known as The Jurassic Coast.

The weekend was fantastic – thanks A.

We had a great time exploring, taking in the Southern England countryside and treating ourselves to well deserved pints of ale and bitter.

Having a couple of pints of Tanglefoot before going for an Indian meal at the end of Day 1 was a real treat.

With Flybe flying to Southampton Airport and Ryanair flying to Bournemouth, the south of England is easy to reach.

The train service provided by South West Trains will take you along the coast from Weymouth to Southampton before travelling on to London.

I headed back to Southampton Airport on the 10:50 from Poole, which stopped at almost every station possible on its 80 minute journey. Seeing the coast and the New Forest again from a different angle was a nice way to end the weekend.

Since I’ve got back I’ve been thinking that staying in the New Forest for a week, hiring bikes and exploring by train could be a really good holiday at the end of summer.

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A Weekend In Dorset And Hampshire

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Although the conditions weren’t great for launching the balloons, the organisers inflated a few so we could see what they’re like.

As I arrived I saw Sonic the Hedgehog on its way down, and just before I left the Maxwell House Coffee balloon was up.

Apart from the balloons there were plenty of market stalls selling food, clothing and jewellery. Add in the fairground attractions and there was plenty of opportunity to have a bit of Bank Holiday fun.

Entrance to the fiesta was free and that suited me as I was really only interested in seeing the hot air balloons and soaking up the atmosphere.

It looked like plenty of people were finding ways to enjoy themselves either on the amusements, having mock straw battles or just strolling around enjoying being outdoors.

The whole area around Trim Castle on the the banks of the Boyne is beautiful. I can see that it would be the perfect place to explore on a summer’s day.

This time I was really only passing through. But I see myself visiting Trim Castle again when we get a spell of good weather. A picnic really does sound like a great idea.

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All the Fun Of The Fair: Trim, County Meath

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